October 15, 2022
Venice in winter is totally underrated in our opinion. We couldn’t find much information on visiting this romantic city during the winter season when we were trying to plan our trip for New Years. Once we were there, we realised how perfect Venice is for the festive season! It’s not too cold, there’s no shortage of activities both outdoors and indoors (if the weather truly does turn, which it probably won’t), and most importantly there were no crowds! Experiencing this city without hordes of people is in itself a reason to visit Venice during winter.
Venice in winter really isn’t that cold. Average temperatures range from highs of 9°C (48°F) to 6°C (43°F), to lows of 3°C (37°F) to 0°C (32°F). Snow is rare, maybe every few years and the Grand Canal hasn’t frozen over in a decade. Rain is moderate, but there are so many indoor activities in Venice that if you have bad weather it won’t really matter. And honestly the moody skies only add to the beauty of the city. We had no problem being outside basically all day every day in late December!
Moody, misty, and quiet – Venice in winter is an experience no one should miss. Walking through the foggy city at dusk with sparkling lights strung up between buildings along every canal makes you feel giddy and festive. Visiting Venice in the summer will be anything but serene and can actually ruin people’s opinion of this city. But the calm, uncrowded atmosphere during winter feels genuine, welcoming and is honestly even more romantic under gray skies.
December and January are the months that see the least amount of visitors to the city. With no summer crowds, you’ll likely come across entire squares without a single other person there. This will make it so much easier to get photos, easier to get reservations, there won’t be a need to book tickets ahead of time, and you won’t have to squeeze through throngs of tourists in the labyrinth of narrow streets. Additionally, if you can avoid traveling over the weekend, you will be surprised at how quiet this major tourist destination really can be.
Winter is the best time to visit Venice for those on a budget. Air fares are at their lowest in early December and after New Years as well. Hotels offer incredible deals at this time too so you’ll more likely find accommodation within your budget in the city itself rather than having to travel in and out.
Winter in Venice is filled with festive events, from Christmas to New Years, the Carnevale and Valentines Day. Venice goes to town decorating for Christmas. It is a magical winter wonderland with even the gondolas being festooned for the season. Visit the Venice Christmas markets and pick up some last minute presents like beautiful hand blown glass tree ornaments from Murano. For New Year’s Eve, there is a big celebration in Saint Mark’s Square with fireworks at midnight throughout the city. Carnevale, where people dress in seventeenth-century Venetian dresses and attend traditional balls and parades (for a hefty fee mind you), is a visually enchanting fairytale come to life. Note: If you’re hoping to avoid crowds, obviously avoid these dates, ESPECIALLY Carnevale.
1000% yes. I had put off going to Venice for years because I thought it had been disneyfied. We only ended up visiting Venice as it was a cheap and convenient destination to fly into to start our Dolomites road trip. We ended the road trip in Venice before flying home, and spent 3 nights and 4 days exploring the city and fell in love with it.
Would I have loved it as much during summer? Absolutely not. With crowds and lines, Venice would quickly lose its charm. I would rather go somewhere like southern France in summer if I wanted the vibes of a busy European hotspot. Venice is definitely a shoulder season destination, and when it is a bit quieter there is nothing quite as special as the canals and alleyways in this city. You feel like you’ve stepped back in time, or onto a movie set, and every corner takes your breath away. The architecture, food and atmosphere really is worth a trip. Don’t discount Venice like I did.
Good to know: Venice will become the first city to ever charge an ‘entrance fee’ to a city. From 16th January 2023, day-trippers will have to sign up online the day that they plan to visit and will pay a fee from 3 to 10 euros per person, depending on the time of year and how crowded the city is. Children under 6 are free and overnight visitors who book a hotel stay are exempt as they already pay a €5 per night city tax. Luckily, if you go during winter, accommodation is much cheaper and you won’t have trouble finding hotels within the city!
I know, typical suggestion. But I for one didn’t truly appreciate just how breathtaking this city is and how much time you really do while away wandering the streets. Allocate a few hours just to wander around aimlessly, then try and target some of the key sites.
You obviously can’t miss Rialto Bridge, and while you’re there you may as well visit Rialto’s Market (though it was a bit tacky to be honest). Beware that restaurants in this area are obviously very overpriced. One of the most expensive Aperol’s we’ve ever had was from a cafe right next to Rialto Bridge. Should have seen that coming, I know. Regardless, the restaurants lining the Grand Canal are mostly heated and absolutely beautiful for a quick stop or bite to eat just to soak in the atmosphere.
Next head to Fondaco de’ Tedeschi, an historical building (now a shopping mall) overlooking the Grand Canal where there is a stunning rooftop terrace. Entrance is free, but you need to book ahead. There was an event on the day we went, and we didn’t know there was an online booking system anyway. So avoid disappointment and book ahead here.
San Marco: This is the most expensive neighbourhood and where you will find top attractions like St. Mark’s Basilica, Piazza San Marco, the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs. This also means it will be the busiest area, so head here early to wander the streets before the day trippers arrive. You can then plan to visit the museums during the busier part of the day. You can’t avoid San Marco, especially if you want to visit the famous sites, so just embrace the business of the area and don’t get bogged down in the disneyfication of the area. I would suggest that you avoid eating or drinking in this neighbourhood and head to an area like San Polo.
San Polo: This is the smallest sestieri (neighbourhood) in Venice, but in our opinion the most lively and it was our favourite area in the city. This is where you will want to head at the end of the night as the bars here will stay open much later than any other neighbourhood. It also makes for a great location to stay if you’re planning on spending the night in Venice rather than traveling in and out of the city.
Dorsoduro: This very quiet sestieri borders San Polo and is the student area making it a much more affordable and authentic part of the city. Taking a walk through Dorsoduro will offer reprieve from the crowds if it is busy elsewhere in the city. While you’re there, make your way to the tip of the island towards Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute, an iconic domed church sitting on the Grand Canal. Dorsoduro is also the place to go for museums. This is where you’ll find the Guggenheim collection, Accademia Gallery and the Punta della Dogana museum.
Skip the gondola and take a tour on the vaporetto (water taxi) instead. Single tickets are €7.50 (valid for 60 minutes), or you can get a tourist travel card for 24 hours for €20. You can buy tickets online here but you’ll also see plenty of kiosks on the Grand Canal.
Take the Line 1 Vaporetto from stop San Marco-San Zaccaria”F” (this is on the waterfront right by Ponte della Paglia). Continue on past Rialto Bridge, and get off to explore one of the northern neighbourhoods like Cannaregio or Villaggio Eden.
Or don’t skip the gondola! It really is personal preference. I’ve heard from plenty of people that they never thought they would enjoy it, and then they actually discovered it was one of the most magical experiences they had in Venice. Official rates are set by the city for gondola rides, so it won’t matter where you get on or who it is with. Rates start at €80 for 40 minutes and climb to €100 after 7pm for 40 minutes. Up to six people can share a gondola, so if you’re traveling in a group this won’t necessarily break the bank! If you’re traveling solo, you can also organise for a shared gondola ride, such as this one for €37 per person. Take the Grand Canal route southwest of Rialto Bridge which also takes you down some narrow canals, a bit of the best of everything!
A guaranteed way to brighten up a winter trip is a visit to the colourful island of Burano. There is only one public boat that runs between Venice and Burano, the Vaporetto Line 12. The vaporetto leaves Venice every half an hour from the north side of the island at a stop called ‘F.te Nove A’. The trip will take you 50 minutes one way. Leave early-ish in the morning and plan to spend about 2 hours here. Visit a glass blowing factory and pick up some hand made lace, then after lunch depart the island and make a stop at Murano (also on Line 12) on your way back to Venice. Murano is also popular for traditional glass-making and is a great stop to pick up some truly local souvenirs.
There are plenty of organised tours that go to Burano and Murano for under €30 per person. Take a look here for some options. If you’re purchasing single tickets on the vaporetto (which are €7.50 one way) you won’t actually spend that much more for an organised tour and you’ll be sure to see the main sites this way without having to organise very much for yourself. The only benefit to taking the public boat is that you can arrive earlier before the day tours arrive. If you’re interested in getting photos here, I would recommend this option over a tour.
Tickets will likely be one of your biggest costs in Venice depending on how much you want to see. You’ll want to purchase your tickets for some of the top sights in advance to ensure availability. You can get a combined ticket for Doge’s Palace and Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana for €28.50. There is also a ticket option that gives you access to 11 museums on top of Doge’s Palace for €44.90. You can check out all of the ticket options here. Next up is Saint Marco Basilica. Tickets start at €19.50, again you should book these online ahead of time here.
The beautiful Teatro La Fenice should also be on your list in our opinion, and entry only costs €12.65. Book online here. This unexpected gem is a must see for history buffs! We really wished that we had planned ahead and booked tickets for a concert or opera. You can find plenty of affordable options even as low as €25. The complete program can be found here.
Some free points of interest include Ponte dell’Accademia and the Bridge of Sighs. We recommend going to Ponte dell’Accademia for morning light. It may not be as well known as Rialto Bridge but it is one of the most visited places in the southern area. The best view for the Bridge of Sighs is from Ponte della Paglia.
Our favourite way to warm up in the evening was to visit a bacaro, the city’s traditional wine bars which frequently serve the typical Venetian aperitif of an ombra and cicchetto (small glass of wine and small plates of food). There are so many of these cozy bars in Venice, and the atmosphere in them is usually laid back and a bit funky, perfect for late afternoon or early evening. These local institutions are totally unique to Venice and shouldn’t be missed.
Cichetto are cheap, usually only a couple of euros each. So if you’re on a budget, this makes for a great option for dinner too. Six to eight makes a meal, and the local wines by the glass are usually very affordable (but often still DOC!).
Each bacaro serves its own variation of cicheti and you could easily hop from one bacaro to another all afternoon. There are even tours on offer to make the most of sampling the different specialities of Venetian cuisine. This cicchetti tasting is only €37, while this tour lasts a bit longer but is double the price at €65.
Once you’ve had your taste of local cicchetti, or for those that aren’t so much on a budget, there are endless opportunities to splurge on beautiful restaurants in Venice. Our favourites were Gio’s Restaurant & Terrace at St Regis Venice and Arva at Aman Venice.
We would recommend lunch at Gio’s Restaurant & Terrace for the beautiful views over the Grand Canal towards Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. The staff here are incredibly friendly, and it doesn’t feel too stuffy or pretentious. The primi’s at Gio’s really weren’t that expensive compared to what we’re used to in Dublin, and were obviously to a much higher standard. Arva at Aman Venice is more suited to a fancy dinner occasion. This is by far the most beautiful restaurant we’ve ever been to. You don’t have to be a guest at the hotel to make a reservation for the restaurant, and again we didn’t feel like it was a pompous environment. The staff were really friendly and the atmosphere was actually pretty low key.
Two or three days is enough. Venice isn’t very big and you will find that you start to see the same pretty corners over and over again. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it means you get very familiar and comfortable in the city and you will be sure that you’ve not missed anything! However, any longer than a few days and you will start to run out of things to do. If you’re wanting to extend your trip, consider heading to Verona or even better for winter, the Dolomites which are only a couple of hours drive away.
If you are arriving by plane, there are two airports that service Venice – Venice Marco Polo airport and Treviso airport. We didn’t realise there were two airports and nearly missed our flight home after going to the wrong one!
Venice Marco Polo is much closer, so try to fly in and out of this airport. From here, there is a direct bus to the city. The quickest option is the Airport Bus (ATVO express bus). The ATVO costs €10 or €18 for a return ticket. It leaves every 20 minutes and will take you straight to the main bus station in Venice (Piazzale Roma) in 20 minutes. You can purchase your tickets online here.
There is also a local bus (bus number 5 or 15) that will take you to Piazzale Roma station from Venice Marco Polo in just over half an hour. Keep in mind that traveling with a lot of luggage can be a pain on this bus. We did it, but we were visiting during the low season, and weren’t prepared. Tickets also cost €10 per person, or €18 for a return. Buses leave about every half an hour, you can find the timetable here. You can pick up a ticket in the airport on your arrival. When you’re departing, there are ACTV ticket machines at Piazzale Roma station.
It goes without saying, but there are no cars in Venice. You’ll find the best way to get around is to walk, so keep this in mind with regards to your luggage for arrival and departure. We were told that San Polo is the most accessible district for those unable to walk up and down a lot of stairs. A lot of hotels will also assist you in organising boat transfers to and from your accommodation.
If you tire of walking around, you can also catch the Vaporetto (water taxi) along the Grand Canal which will get you to quite a few different neighbourhoods and close to all major tourist sites. See here for the map and more information on tourist travel cards which can be bought online ahead of your arrival.
The stunning interior of Teatro La Fenice
There is a Venice to suit all budget types. It really depends on the kind of experience that you want. We went with budget accommodation and activities, and splurged on food here.
| Activity | Cost |
|---|---|
| Bus (return trip from Marco Polo, per person) | €18 |
| Doge’s Palace & Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana | €28.50 |
| Saint Marco Basilica | €19.50 |
| Teatro La Fenice | €12.65 |
| Burano & Murano tour | €25 |
| Gondola ride | €80-100 |
| Single Vaporetto ticket | €7.50 |
| Accommodation (3 nights) | €473 |
| Food and drink: 2 mains + carafe of wine | €50 |
| Food and drink: ombra and cicchetto x 4 | €20 |
The vast majority of visitors to Venice are day trippers. However, we highly recommend that you stay on the island. During winter there is much more availability at a reasonable price too. Wandering the maze of alleyways in the evening is stunning. The best neighbourhoods to stay in are San Polo (for the night life) or Dorsoduro (more affordable). If you’re only staying for one night, you can consider staying in San Marco. This is obviously going to cost you more, but it will be very convenient given this is where the majority of the top tourist sites are.
We hope that we’ve inspired you to visit Venice in winter. We think Venice is a great option for those looking for a winter getaway that doesn’t involve winter sports, but still want a variety of activities. You’ll find that you have entire squares to yourself as you wander the city’s labyrinths, with endless opportunities to duck indoors to escape the cold.
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