Connemara and Kylemore Abbey – beautiful and wild Ireland
Explore the wild landscapes of Connemara and visit the most photogenic castle in Ireland, Kylemore Abbey with this weekend guide
August 21, 2022
Ireland Travel Series: the Aran Islands, Inis Mor
Camping, cycling and cliff diving
The Aran Islands are up there with the most beautiful and authentic destinations in Ireland for locals and tourists alike. Whether you’re planning a weekend getaway from Dublin or Galway, or your Wild Atlantic Way road trip, the Aran Islands should be top of your list for things to see in the west of Ireland. The Aran Islands encompass three islands off the coast from Galway. This guide will provide you with everything you need to know about visiting the largest of the trio – Inis Mor. We include the usual’s like information on ferries, top sites to visit and how to get around. We also include tips from our own experience that we think will help make your trip even better.
If you’ve been to Ireland, you’ve probably seen the beautiful Aran Island sweaters. You may have also heard that it’s one of the few places in Ireland where you will still hear people talking the native language Gaeilge (Irish). Before we even stepped foot on Inis Mor, we heard Gaeilge! It was common to hear it being spoken while we waited for our coffee in the morning as all the locals greeted each other. Inis Mor is a visually beautiful, culturally unique and welcoming part of Ireland well worth your time.
Suggested: If you’re looking to see more of Ireland’s west coast, read our post on Connemara and Kylemore Lodge, or our weekend guides to Sligo and Donegal. We have also prepared a unique 7 day road trip guide to Ireland that combines all of these amazing places.
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In this article
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When should you visit the Aran Islands?When should you visit the Aran Islands?
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How long do you need?How long do you need?
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How to get to the Aran Islands?How to get to the Aran Islands?
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Travel budgetTravel budget
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Best things to do on the Aran IslandsBest things to do on the Aran Islands
The Wild Atlantic Way is, well, wild. And although not impossible, in winter you have to be pretty lucky to get decent enough weather to be outside all day. Exploring the Aran Islands is an outdoor-based experience. And a bit of rain won’t ruin that, but rain plus cold temperatures and wind, plus short daylight hours just won’t be as enjoyable.
Summer
We’ve heard that during summer the waters around Inis Mor are so clear and blue that you would think you’re in the mediterranean. That is until you try to get in the water and realise it’s still very, very cold. You will need to deal with larger crowds during summer. And you still aren’t guaranteed to have clear skies, so we suggest going in Spring!
Shoulder season
We chose to go in April. As the days started to get longer in Ireland we were itching to get out and start exploring our new home. We missed camping so much. It was something we used to do in Australia every chance we got. So we packed up our gear and decided to go with it no matter the weather. There’s an Irish saying ‘soft April showers and bright May flowers will bring the summer back again’. It rained on and off while we were there, but they were indeed soft showers and none of our plans were interrupted. The only downside to the weather we had was that the Atlantic was still very rough. This meant it wasn’t possible to swim at the Wormhole (more on this below).
Day trips to the Aran Islands are a popular option. Although you can see a lot of the island in a day, we suggest staying a night or two if you have the time. It really is a more local experience. As with all local experiences it’s best to slow down and take a bit of time to enjoy it. We camped on the Inis Mor for 3 nights over the Easter long weekend. 4 days gave us a chance to take our time and go back to the places we loved the most. Besides, if you don’t spend the night you won’t get the chance to enjoy some trad music at Joe Watty’s (very popular) Pub.
How to get to the Aran Islands?
Traveling around Ireland without a car can be difficult. However the Aran Islands are surprisingly easy to reach using only public transport! This makes the Aran Islands a very affordable and sustainable option. Ferries to the Aran Islands depart from two places along the Wild Atlantic Way. This gives you flexibility in where you want to fit it in if you’re doing a bigger road trip on the west coast.
From Galway
Getting to Galway is incredibly easy with public transport if you aren’t on a road trip. Trains run several times a day from Dublin and take about 2.5 hours. You should always book ahead with Irish Rail so that you don’t miss out on the train that you want.
Next up is the ferry! We went with Aran Island Ferries departing from Rossaveel. Two return trips including the shuttle bus costs €78. It’s a 5 minute walk from the train station to the shuttle bus departure point. Departure times change depending on the day. We suggest booking your train first to ensure you’ll be on time for the shuttle bus to Rossaveel where the ferry leaves from. You’ll need to be in Galway 90 minutes before your departure time, and then it’s a 45 minute drive to the ferry. The ferry to the Aran Islands from Rossaveel takes just 40 minutes.
There are seasonal ferries that depart from Galway directly, however on the return trip they detour to the Cliffs of Moher. These are also offered by Aran Island Ferries. All up this will cost you €60 per person, so a bit more pricey compared to the €39 per person from Rossaveel, but this does offer a great way to knock out two major tourist attractions in one trip.
From Doolin
You can also depart from Doolin with Doolin Ferry Co. for €39 return, a good choice if you’re also planning on seeing the Cliffs of Moher, plus the town is very colourful and cute. If departing from here, you would want to be driving as taking public transport will simply chew up too much of your time getting to Doolin (if you’re not local that is).
Travel Budget?
For 4 days / 3 nights on Inis Mor we spent €510 for two people. Not bad! For Ireland at least. You could reduce this even more by preparing all of your own food.
| Activity | Cost |
|---|---|
| Camping | €90 |
| Ferry (return, including bus) | €78 |
| Bike hire (2 days) | €90 |
| Food and drink | €180 |
| Train (Dublin to Galway return) | €72 |
| Total | €510 |
Best things to do on the Aran Islands
Go camping
We were actually surprised by how many people were camping in April. Although a bit wet, it really didn’t impact us too much. For €30 a night for two people, we felt like we were able to really stretch our budget, especially for a public holiday weekend when prices sky rocket everywhere. It’s a 5 minute walk to the campground (the only one of the island) from the ferry, and within walking distance to all the main pubs and restaurants.
If you’re planning on camping but are concerned of getting rained out, keep an eye on the forecast and consider hiring a glamping cabin if it looks like it will be too wet for your taste. Glamping will be €170 per night, but the cabins sleep 4, so if you’re traveling in a group this would make for a fairly affordable option at just over €40 per person.
While we brought our own stove, we ate out more than we anticipated because we got drawn into the atmosphere! The campground had a fully equipped kitchen that plenty of people made use of. If camping here, try to get a spot along the wall to the left of the kitchen. This area will be darkest at night and the flood lights across the majority of the grassed area are no joke.
After a pint or two at the pub, we spent our evenings cosied up in the tent reading a novel. Frosty mornings involved drinking warm cups of coffee overlooking Frenchman’s beach. Camping on the Aran Island was slow, quiet and romantic.
Hire a bike!
Although you can do various tours of the island, if you are able to cycle we recommend renting a bike to explore (from €20 per day). This was by far our favourite activity of the trip. We spent hours every day just cycling around and stopping wherever caught our eye. The island isn’t too hilly and you can get around the whole thing in a day if you’re pinched for time.
The tiny fields encircled in stone walls make for a beautiful landscape and there is nothing quite like the green of Irish pasture. You can rent bikes from a handful of places where the ferry arrives. We pre-booked our bikes (you really don’t need to pre-book) from Aran Bike Hire and headed in a clockwise direction stopping at the seal colony lookout and Kilmurvey Beach, continuing all the way up to the ancient Na Seacht dTeampaill (The Seven Churches).
From there, double back and make your way over to Dún Aonghasa, an imposing stone fort located at the highest point on the island. You will need to pay a €5 per adult entry fee. Depending on whether you’re a history buff, this may or may not be worth it. You can certainly get views just as good without the crowds at the next stop on your bike tour, the Wormhole! From the Wormhole you can walk back up the cliffs towards Dún Aonghasa as well, you just won’t be able to get inside the walls. Include a stop at Teach Nan Phaidi for lunch if you haven’t packed a picnic, or just a nice glass of wine, and you have yourself a perfect day on Inis Mor.
Suggested cycle tour
Simply follow the numbers and enjoy the ride!
The Wormhole
We would love to go back to the Wormhole in summer. Photos of this natural phenomenon show water so calm that you can cliff dive and swim in it like a lap pool. They actually hold Redbull cliff diving events here which would be amazing to see. When we went however, it was a washing machine; loud and violent. Pack a lunch and spend some time here taking in the views. Calm weather or not, it’s a beautiful spot to spend some time and appreciate the Wild Atlantic Way.
It’s certainly not as straightforward to reach as we thought it was. Putting ‘Wormhole’ into maps leads you to the nearest fence as the crow flies. From there we’re still not sure whether it’s through private property or not. We waited and watched a few others before heading into the fields and up the hill. It’s not a very long walk and as soon as you reach the crest of the hill you will see exactly where you need to go. Alternatively, there are guide posts leading from the town of Gort Na gCapall, or you can walk along the cliffs from Dún Aonghasa if you’ve paid entry into that.
Kilmurvey Beach
I took my first ever cold swim while in the Aran Islands at Kilmurvey Beach. The clouds cleared just as we got to the beach, showing off the bay’s fine sand and clear blue water. It’s located on the sheltered side and will never be too busy. If the weather is nice, plan to spend some time here. It’s near Teach Nan Phaidi, a gorgeous little cafe that makes for a great post-swim spot for cake and coffee.
Enjoy some trad music at Joe Wattys
Joe Wattys is a bit of a hot spot on Inis Mor. On our first night after setting up camp we walked up for a pint and a burger only to find out they wouldn’t have a table available for the rest of the evening. The last ferry comes in at 7 and shortly after this the crowds pour in. We kept hearing from locals that it was unseasonably quiet for the Easter long weekend, so we can’t imagine how packed the pubs must get during summer. Our advice, get there for an early dinner. Otherwise, head into the main area of Lower Kilronan for a bite to eat and head up to Joe Wattys at 10pm when the trad music will start. Park yourself up in a cozy corner and enjoy the festive atmosphere!
Visit another island
Inis Mor is the largest Aran Island, however there are two more islands that you may add to your itinerary – Inis Meain and Inis Oírr, both of which are much smaller. You can use Inis Mor as a base and do a day trip to another island, or island hop to your heart’s content.
A one way ticket with Doolin Ferries between Inis Mor and Inis Meain (15 minutes sailing time) or Inis Oírr (30 to 45 minutes sailing time) will set you back €20 for an adult. There are limited departure times with one in the morning and one in the afternoon, but given the size of the other two islands it leaves you with plenty of time to explore.
Inis Mor, Aran Islands – a perfect trip off mainland Ireland
The Aran Islands are still a bit of a hidden gem and deserve a place on any west coast Ireland itinerary. It was one of the first places we decided to visit after moving to Ireland after hearing from locals just how beautiful it was, and it did not disappoint. Inis Mor is a great destination for an active, but by no means strenuous getaway that is easy to reach even if you don’t have a car. It’s affordable, authentic and the locals on the island are so incredibly welcoming you won’t want to leave.
Thanks for stopping by!
We hope we’ve inspired you to plan a trip to the Aran Islands. This part of Ireland offers up a genuine local experience that is hard to find elsewhere.
Suggested: If you’re looking to see more of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, read our post on Connemara and Kylemore Lodge, or our weekend guides to Sligo and Donegal. We also have a detailed guide for a unique 7 day road trip around Ireland if you’re planning an extended holiday!
If you have any questions, please let us know. To stay up to date with our weekly guides, please subscribe!
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