Skiing in Italy

December 17, 2022

Skiing in Italy - Ultimate beginners guide

If you’re planning on visiting the Dolomites in winter, you can’t pass up the chance to enjoy some winter sports! When you’re skiing in Italy you won’t have to wait in lines and there are no crowds on the way down. Additionally, the snow is incredibly powdery and well maintained and the views can’t be beaten. This unique ski holiday experience is one that every skier should experience once in their life! 

This guide covers general information that applies to all Dolomiti Superski Pass ski areas. It also provides some more in depth information on Alta Badia and Kronplatz specifically. The best way to experience skiing in Italy is with the Dolomiti Superski Pass. The Dolomiti Superski Pass covers 12 (yes 12!) ski areas with 450 ski lifts covering 1,200km of “guaranteed” pistes between them. You’ll find high alpine glaciers, terrain parks, off-piste skiing and many kilometres of beginner and intermediate friendly piste trails suitable for families.

We also have a guide to all the best things to see and do off the slopes in the Italian Dolomites in winter.

Couple embracing at dusk in front of colourful town

Travel For Working People

Thanks for visiting! We're Bec & Michael and we are two hard working lovers of travel! We hope our words inspire you to travel the world without having to toss out your career!

No time to read this now? Pin it for later

In this article

Good to know before skiing in italy

Language 

South Tyrol was previously part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and was only annexed to Italy at the end of World War 1 in 1919. Avoid confusion and know before you arrive that there are two names for everything in the Dolomites. The entire region is bilingual (German and Italian). This means that places will have two names, from street signs to city names. 

Weather – perfect for skiing in Italy

The shortest day in December still sees the sun rise around 7.30am and sunset at about 4.30pm so you’ll be able to fit in huge ski days. It obviously does get cold in the Dolomites in winter. Average day-time temperatures are around 0.2°C (32.36°F) in December, but it rarely rains and you’ll be blessed with crisp days full of sunshine. As long as you’re dressed appropriately, the weather won’t prevent you from enjoying the outdoors.

Why skiing in Italy is worth it

The Dolomites is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage area in recognition of its astounding natural beauty. Seriously, you will never get tired of the spectacular mountain views when skiing in Italy. The Dolomites ski region is one of the largest ski networks in the world. You could explore this area for a lifetime and never see it all. 97% of the piste trails have snow making machines. So although the Dolomites don’t receive as much fresh powder as surrounding alps destinations, you won’t even notice! The interconnected system of ski lifts (which are of very high quality) means you can explore multiple areas on a single ski trip on a single ski pass. While you’re on the slopes, you’ll be spoilt for choice with mountain restaurants and a lively après ski atmosphere. 

Mountain spas, historic cities and quiet ski slopes

At the end of the day, you’ll find accommodation options to suit all budgets. From ski-in ski-out accommodation on-mountain, plenty of rifugi (mountain huts only accessible by foot) and endless village options with budget apart-hotels or more upscale spa resorts. When you’re looking for a break from the slopes, there are nearby cities to explore. You can while away a perfect afternoon in Bolzano which is just filled to the brim with history. If you haven’t gotten your fix of outdoor activities there are accessible winter hikes, frozen lakes to marvel at, or scenic drives through incredible mountain passes. We’ve listed our favourite non-skiing activities in the Dolomites at the end of this post!

Enjoy a spa at sunset, or take a drive through spectacular mountain passes 

How the Dolomiti Superski Pass works

This post is in no way sponsored, we just found it to be a spectacular area and a very convenient experience with the pass. 

The only pass you’ll need when skiing in Italy

The Dolomiti Superski Pass offers great value when compared to the number of lifts and amount of terrain that it covers. You can find a map of the enormous area covered by the Dolomiti Superski Pass here. I have read that the lift passes for the Dolomiti region are the highest in Italy and higher than many other ski resort areas in the Alps. So you’ll need to weigh up the pros and cons yourself, but we think it is definitely worth the price given the variety of resorts. 

The Dolomiti Superski season starts in late November and goes until early May. Ski lifts are typically open from 8.15am to 5:00pm every day. Prices vary depending on when you’re visiting and how many days you plan on skiing. During pre season between 24th November to 24th December, a one day pass will be €63 for an adult. In high season (25th Dec to 7th January, and 29th January to 18th March) a one day pass will be €74 for an adult. You can view all prices here, including bundles that save you a bit of money such as Flexipasses and family passes.  

One day passes – options when skiing in Italy 

If you’re only planning on one ski day and don’t expect that you’ll cover enough ground to see multiple ski resorts, you can of course still pick up a one day ticket to all the ski resorts. For example a one day ski pass during pre season for Kronplatz will be €47 for an adult. This is €16 cheaper than a one day Superski Pass, so save yourself some money if this option suits! If you’re a beginner however we really suggest that you try to plan for a couple of days skiing, with a lesson each day to really make the most of your trip.    

How the passes work when skiing in Italy

You can pick up ski passes in person from the lower cable car stations at any resort. However, we highly suggest you skip the lines and purchase your tickets ahead of time online. If you’re only planning a couple of days skiing and have flexibility in your schedule, try to leave buying your tickets until the night before or the morning of. This will just give you the ability to change skiing days if the weather is terrible.

You will get a paper ski pass that you can keep zipped up in a pocket of your pants or jacket. It will scan automatically as you pass through gates. If you’ve bought your ticket online, you will be able to print it out at machines next to most ticket offices. If you are planning on buying tickets when you arrive, plan to arrive early as lines will start forming before the ticket offices even open! 

Beginner friendly advice for skiing in italy

The Dolomiti Superski region is great for beginners! In fact 30% of the slopes are graded for beginners. There are three different levels for skiing: black for experts, red is intermediate and blue is for beginners. The terrain in the Dolomites isn’t as steep as in other parts of the Alps. However, be aware that the blue slopes in the Dolomites are much steeper than beginner slopes elsewhere. In fact, the blue slopes will be closer to green slopes in the US. 

Know your surroundings and take a map

For each ski area, there will be multiple villages with ski lift access. Some piste trails (ski slopes) can be very very long. Without planning ahead you risk ending up far away from your accommodation. Make sure you always look at the map of the ski area you’re in to ensure that you’re heading back in the right direction for the end of the day. Public transport between nearby villages is possible. But you don’t want to be lugging all of your gear with you on a bus if you can prevent it. With piste trails being so long, it’s also possible to get lost if you’re not paying attention. Be realistic and know when to take a break and recalibrate your surroundings.  

Tips for your first time skiing in Italy 

For new skiers or those wanting to refresh themselves, head over to one of the many ski schools on the mountains. There’s no shortage. There are over 200 instructors on Kronplatz alone who can hold lessons in a number of languages, for groups or individuals. I hadn’t gone skiing for quite a few years. So I took two 2.5 hour private lessons for €69 each with Kronschool. I just booked on the day we arrived and had no issues with availability. But if you’re arriving after Christmas it would be worth booking ahead of time as this will be peak season.

Gear hire

You will be able to hire all your gear once you arrive – skis or snowboard, boots, helmet, and goggles. As a beginner you should definitely opt to rent for your first trip (or first few trips). A beginner set will cost you around €43 per day for skis and boots, a helmet, and goggles, and overnight lockers start from €10. However, it is a good idea to bring your cold weather gear with you, including snow pants and jacket as well as waterproof insulated gloves. Although you can find all of this in almost every village around the Dolomiti Superski region, it will (probably) end up costing you a lot more than if you were to buy it at home or online.    

What ski resort to visit when skiing in italy

When skiing in Italy, you have the choice of 12 main ski resorts in the Dolomiti Superski area!  

  1. Cortina d’Ampezzo
  2. Kronplatz
  3. Alta Badia
  4. Val Gardena
  5. Val di Fassa
  6. Arabba-Marmolada; 
  7. 3 Peaks Dolomites (Drei Zinnen a.k.a Sesto)
  8. Valle di Fiemme – Obereggen
  9. San Martino di Castrozza – Passo Rolle
  10. Plose & Gitschberg-Jochtal
  11. Alpe Lusia – San Pellegrino
  12. Civetta

No matter where you choose you will have ample options as a beginner. You can expect wide slopes and fewer crowds compared to other ski regions in the Alps, very handy for those learning. We visited both Alta Badia and Kronplatz and highly recommend them both, especially for beginners and intermediates. Michael is more advanced. Although there are plenty of black runs, he got through them pretty quickly and would have been better suited to a more advanced ski resort.

Kronplatz 

In 2018 Kronplatz was nominated the Best Ski Resort in the Alps, there are 119km of ski slopes, and 32 lifts. There’s artificial snow machines everywhere, ensuring ample fresh powder on all pistes. There’s even a special ‘Kids’ Park’ for the little ones as well. The incredible range of on-piste trails is a big draw card for many, with 48% of the pistes being beginner (blue). Even with so many slopes being beginner friendly, note that you will not be able to ski throughout the entire resort. There are intermediate slopes scattered in between beginners slopes all across the resort. As we said earlier in this post, always have a good idea of where you’re going. Plan ahead so that you don’t get lost or end up on a more difficult slope than your experience allows.

If this is your first time in Kronplatz, download the app. The ski area is massive and the app will give you complete maps, as well as weather reports and information on lift closures and events.

Alta Badia – best for beginners when skiing in Italy

This is one of the best beginner resorts in the Alps. Within the Alta Badia resort you will be able to enjoy 130km of freshly groomed pistes. There is also direct access to another 500km of additional slopes in the Dolomiti Superski area. With 54% of slopes begging beginner friendly, this resort is even better than Kronplatz for those just learning. As I hadn’t been skiing in a few years, I definitely found the slopes on Alta Badia to be more gentle in terrain. There’s also longer stretches of blue slopes at a time. So I felt that we spent less time on ski lifts traveling across the mountains and more time actually skiing. 

In fact there are only 3 runs that should be avoided by beginners at Alta Badia. There is a beginner’s area and practice lifts right at the base. There are mostly lifts so you won’t have to navigate the dreaded t-bars, and difficult crossovers can be avoided! Out of the two, I would say this was my favourite as a novice. The views were still breathtaking, and the restaurants on the mountain were incredible! 

What to eat and drink on the slopes

Après ski – the best part of skiing in Italy 

While you’re skiing in the Italian Dolomites, you can’t pass up the experience of après ski. Whether you’re the kind of person that prefers a quiet bar to relax at the end of a big ski day, or a big party in a nightclub, there are plenty of nightlife options in the Italian Dolomites ski resorts. Corvara, in Alta Badia, has some of the best après ski in all of Italy. It’s a little bit classy, but still lively. A popular spot is L’Murin which is a converted barn where you can dance in your ski boots (though if you’re a beginner you’ll be dying to take your boots off at the end of the day). 

Warm drinks and hearty food on the slopes

No matter where you’re skiing in Kronplatz, you’ll find charming mountain huts everywhere, where you can take a break and enjoy a hearty lunch. In fact, I would say one of the main reasons to go skiing in Italy is to enjoy the mouth-watering food. Warm up with a bombardino (Italian eggnog), or Vin brulé and give your legs a break while taking in the views and atmosphere on the mountain. Just be warned that like all ski areas, food and drink can be expensive. If you’re keen to go all in though, you can have a full on extravaganza with three or four courses for lunch in between runs. 

Where to stay in the Italian Dolomites

With so many villages and rifugi in the Dolomites ski region it can be difficult to choose where to stay. Note that accommodation can be hard to find in some of the more popular villages and can be pretty expensive so shop around! We found affordable bed and breakfasts or apartments all over the region while we visited, but we did book well in advance (about 5 months). 

Major cities to consider when skiing in Italy 

The biggest city in the region is Bolzano which has really good public transport connections and is very close to all of the Dolomiti Superski resorts. If you’ve hired your own vehicle however, you will be spoilt for choice for where to stay. Just keep in mind you probably don’t want to be driving large distances either side of a big day skiing. You’ll also finish up skiing very close to sunset, and although the roads are very well maintained in the Dolomites we would still suggest avoiding driving after dark as much as possible for safety. 

There are other major ski towns all around the Dolomites other than Bolzano, including some of the most popular in all of Italy such as Val Gardena and Cortina. If you’ve arrived by public transport, don’t worry, you can still stay outside of the main cities if you prefer. Plenty of hotels offer ski lift transfers and have on site gear rooms. 

Alta Badia

If you’re planning on visiting Alta Badia, we suggest staying in Corvara in Badia Kurfar. Book ahead! This town is incredibly popular and the surrounding villages aren’t serviced very well. The good news is that because it’s a popular town to stay in, there are accommodation options to suit all budgets and you will be within walking distance to the ski slopes themselves or at least a short shuttle bus ride away.  

Kronplatz

For Kronplatz we recommend that you stay in Valdaora. We spent a few days at Hotel Hubertus for Bec’s 30th birthday and it was our favourite hotel we’ve ever been to! The views, the spas, the meals, the incredible rooms! We never wanted to leave. It is fairly pricey at between €478 and €698 per night in December, but that includes all food and is totally worth the price in our opinion. They do deals over the ski period as well, so keep an eye out for that! Our stay wasn’t sponsored at all, we paid for it all ourselves well before we even started this blog, so we’re completely honest in our raving review of this place!   

Budget accomodation

For a cheaper option, we recommend Apartment-Hotel Winklwiese. We also stayed here for a few days after Hotel Hubertus while we were skiing as we knew we would only really be going back to the hotel to sleep and recover after big days on the ski slopes. The rooms were spacious, warm and had a fully equipped kitchen so you can cook your own meals. The breakfast was fairly basic, but it’s a 5 minute walk to the ski shuttle bus to Kronplatz. Rooms start at €127 for two people per night, which is about as good as you’re going to get in this area! So given its location and amenities we thought this place was fantastic.

How to get there, and getting around

Getting to the Dolomites

The Dolomiti Superski region is in the north east of Italy, near the border of Austria. The region is easily reached from major international airports including Munich and Venice. For those arriving within Europe there is also Innsbruck only about 100 km away or Treviso and Verona in Italy. 

Getting around the Dolomites 
Public transport 

If you’re visiting the Dolomites purely for a ski holiday, you will have (limited) options for purely relying on public transport. Kronzplatz and 3-Peaks are directly accessible by train on the Fortezza-Dobbiaco line (north line), but getting to the other resorts can be a pain. In saying that it’s not impossible for those with flexibility (maybe not those traveling in groups, with small children or with a lot of luggage). It will however take planning. Once you reach Bolzano many of the areas are interlinked, and there are plenty of local buses to be able to get between the different ski areas once you have arrived. The other major train destinations are Bressanone and Brunico.  

If you want to do some sight seeing while you’re in the Italian Dolomites however, we would suggest you hire your own vehicle. 

You’ll find scenic spots around every corner, and be able to enjoy vin brulé while basking in the sun

Private transport

We recommend renting a car while visiting the Dolomites in winter. The public transport network will restrict your ability to sight see when you’re not on the slopes. Road conditions in northern Italy are great, with well maintained arterial roads. Just steer clear of driving first thing in the morning to avoid black ice and make sure you rent a car with snow tires (snow chains are just annoying). For extra safety you can choose to rent a SUV or large sedan, but it isn’t necessary. In fact, smaller cars will be more convenient for finding parking and on narrow mountain roads. You will occasionally find that car parks aren’t plowed, but all main roads and pullovers are frequently cleared. As Australians, we weren’t that experienced in driving in winter conditions, but we didn’t have any problems. 

Check your tyres

There are plenty of seasonal closures on local roads and side roads, but honestly this didn’t affect our road trip whatsoever. We picked up a car in Venice at the airport and drove straight to the Dolomites from there. If you do end up with snow chains, be sure to double check that they are the right size! This happened to us and had we not picked up on it before leaving the car rental agency we would have had a tough time. Always remember to check the vehicle for scratches and chips and take photos before you leave the rental agency.  

Car hire will be cheaper in the local cities near the ski areas (rather than hiring a car from the airport you arrive in). So if you can manage to take public transport to the closest city to your chosen area, or even all the way to the ski resort, then you will likely be able to save some cash. 

Tip: Depending on your nationality, an International Driver’s License (IDP) might be required to hire a car in Ireland.

What else to see and do in the Italian Dolomites in winter

When you’re skiing in Italy you’ll want some options for your downtime. Especially as a beginner, you’ll need to take a break. We have an 8 day guide to visiting the Italian Dolomites in winter that includes all sorts of activities other than skiing! Below we’ve listed our top three suggestions that are close to Kronplatz and Alta Badia. 

Bobsledding at Tre Cime 

You have two options to get to Tre Cime in winter, either walk or take a snowmobile up. You won’t need snowshoes if you choose to walk, the path up is very well trodden. It’s an easy walk and will take about 1.5 to 2 hours one way. If the snowmobile option sounds more appealing, then you can organise this with Tre Cime Service when you arrive. There’s no need to pre-book this service, they open at 9am and you will see the hut right next to the carpark. It costs €30 per person which includes the 6 km climb (around 20 minutes) up to the Auronzo refuge at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and then a bobsled back down for 5 km.

Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) 

Lago di Braies (or Pragser Wildsee in German) is one of the most beautiful spots in the region and is the largest alpine lake in the Dolomites. In winter it freezes over entirely, so you’ll miss out on the lake’s reflection and the cute row boats you’ve probably seen on social media, but that doesn’t make it any less breathtaking! If you’re looking to stretch your legs though you can walk around most of the lake even in winter, though the official hiking path closes after the first significant snowfall. The bistro here sets up a fire pit during the winter where you can drink some hot wine on straw bales, very cozy! 

Take a winter hike

Taking a winter hike to Geisler Alm is possible without a guide or snowshoes. There are two ways you can walk up to Geisler Alm. Either walk straight up the road (which will take around 1 to 1.5 hours) or take the scenic route and follow the walking path which goes past Dusler Alm. The trail is very easy to follow and possible without snowshoes. If it has just snowed, you might be better off taking the road up especially if you aren’t up for an exerting walk. All up allow for 4 to 5 hours which will include some time to stop at the refuge, snap tonnes of photos and soak up the beautiful landscapes and dramatic exposed rock.

Thanks for stopping by!

We hope that we’ve inspired you to plan a ski trip to the Italian Dolomites this winter. For those looking for an outdoor, adventurous winter holiday in Europe, there aren’t many options as spectacular as the Dolomites. We also have a detailed guide for the best things to do in the Italian Dolomites in winter other than skiing. 

If you have any questions, please let us know, and please subscribe! 

Like this post? Please share or pin for later!

More guides for Italy:

Subscribe

Subscribe to our email list to stay up to date with our most recent travel guides and posts!

Copyright © 2022 Travel For Working People

Unless stated, all content including copy, imagery and video is property of the Travel For Working People.

Pinterest-p Instagram Tiktok Envelope
Subscribe
Notify of
guest

0 Comments
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x