September 17, 2022
Discover Milos - a complete guide to an enchanting, romantic Greek Island
Milos Island is one of three islands in the Cyclades that we combined together for a quiet and cheap shoulder season trip to the Greek islands. Milos is rugged, expansive and romantic. There are endless turquoise beaches to explore by ATV or boat (or both!), gorgeous seafront restaurants and uninterrupted views of sunset everywhere you are on the island. This comprehensive guide breaks down the best things to see and do, and exactly how much everything will cost you (realistically).
Suggested: Looking to extend your trip in the Cyclades? Read our post here on Sifnos Island, the best island for nature and food lovers, or our post on Paros Island which is perfect for those looking for a bit of nightlife and typical Cycladic villages. To take the hassle out of it completely, we’ve also prepared a 10 day Greek island hopping itinerary.
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In this article
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Why you should visit MilosWhy you should visit Milos
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Best things to do on MilosBest things to do on Milos
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When you should visit MilosWhen you should visit Milos
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How long do you needHow long do you need
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How to get to MilosHow to get to Milos
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How to get around the islandHow to get around the island
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Travel budgetTravel budget
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Where to stay on MilosWhere to stay on Milos
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Where to eat on MilosWhere to eat on Milos
Why you should visit Milos
Milos island has such an incredibly laid back atmosphere and is best known for its volcanic landscapes and endless azure beaches. We think Milos is great for those after a bit of adventure with remote beaches, plenty of water sports and rugged landscapes. Nothing could feel better than cruising around on an ATV at sunset in the early summer on Milos. It’s gaining popularity, but it still isn’t entirely overrun with tourists especially if you avoid July and August.
On Milos we skimped on accommodation, but splurged on experiences and food. It was a great combination, and we think this island is perfect for any budget. Whether you’re on a honeymoon, or a budget backpacker you will find the experiences that you’re after.
Best things to do on Milos
Sarakíniko
First up on the list is the iconic volcanic rock landscape of Sarakiniko. We had high hopes for this place before going to Milos, to the point we were concerned it wouldn’t live up to the hype of instagram. But in our opinion, social media hadn’t given us a false sense of the place.
Sarakiniko is absolutely stunning, best experienced at sunset (though the colour of the water will be brightest in the middle of the day) and on calm days when the water is still so that you can cliff jump. Be sure to explore away from the crowds. When we arrived we headed west and didn’t even have time to explore the eastern section. You could easily spend half a day here, especially if you’re going for a swim. There are no facilities here so bring lunch along with you if you’re planning on sticking around for a while.
Explore the fishing villages and charming towns
Klima
This totally unique fishing village is probably the most famous village on the island. The charming strip of colourful houses is one of the smallest settlements on Milos and is incredibly photogenic. It is particularly popular for sunset, so expect crowds. Most boat tours will pass by Klima as well, giving you a unique perspective of this village.
You only need a short amount of time here as Klima is not very big at all. You can swim here and there are plenty of restaurants, though you will want to book ahead if you’re visiting during peak season in July and August. There is parking but especially during peak season you may find it difficult to find a spot due to the popularity of this village.
Mandrakia
We came here at sunset and were blown away by this charming village. Like Klima, you don’t need much time here as the village is very, very small with only one taverna. The boat garages are carved into the rock right on the water in a very small bay, which is still used by local fishermen. The crystal clear water here makes for a great swimming location, although there is no beach.
Plaka
We wished we had gone to Plaka earlier than we did during our trip. We came here on our last night and the atmosphere was just incredible. You have probably seen that one of the best spots on the island for sunset is the church here, the Church of Panagia Korfiatissa. It’s a stunning location, but be warned it’s busy. It was probably one of the most crowded places we came across on the island.
The town is a beautiful white washed village with panoramic views and winding alleyways absolutely chock full of charming little boutiques. We have a tradition of buying ceramics wherever we go, and picked up some beautiful pinch bowls here.
Arrive early
You’ll want to arrive early. There’s designated parking at the bottom of the town. One car park had already filled up by the time we got there, about an hour before sunset, and we were on Milos during the low season. I can imagine during August this place would be nuts.
After sunset, you’ll either want to be REALLY quick to go grab a table, or have something already booked. If you get caught out, maybe stop for a cocktail before dinner at Verina Cocktail Bar. The cute bar is right next door to the church with a great selection of drinks.
Trypiti
This beautiful town is totally underrated in our opinion. It was dead quiet while we strolled through the narrow streets on our first day in Milos. There are iconic white windmills, a gorgeous big church, and due to its location the town is packed full of restaurants with panoramic views over the ocean. It’s located really close to Klima and Plaka, so visiting these three towns in one afternoon is definitely possible.
Adamantas
Adamantas is where the ferry port is located, so not exactly a charming little town. However, there are some gorgeous seaside restaurants in Adamantas, just avoid anywhere near the ferries. There are some beautiful boutique shops here as well. My favourites were Magma Jewellery where I picked up a beautiful blue stone necklace, and Angel, a boutique clothing store where the owner picked out the most perfectly fitting bikini bottoms I’ve ever had by just touching my waist.
Day Tour to Kleftiko
Hands down the best experience we had on the island, and potentially in all of Greece, was a day tour of Kleftiko beach and caves. We did a full day sailing with Polco Sailing, and chose the Milos round trip for €100 per person. These tours are small group tours (maximum 10 people) with all food and drink included. We initially wanted to do the Milos and Poliegos sailing tour, but it was sold out on our dates. Instead we ended up opting for the Milos round trip and in no way was it disappointing.
What to expect
You won’t just stop at Kleftiko of course, they will take you to several snorkeling locations and maybe even some spots where you can cliff jump! Our guide took us out several times in a small dinghy to explore tiny blue caves, massive open cave beaches and white rocky landscapes with no one else around.
Some things to consider when picking which company to go with include the group size, whether food and drink are included (you will likely be out for almost 10 hours), and if they provide snorkeling gear (most will, but always double check).
The weather has to be perfect for day tours to Kleftiko. We would advise that you don’t leave it until your last day in case your day tour is canceled due to bad weather. If this is a must-do for your trip to Milos, make sure tours will be operating as they are not year round.
Hire your own boat (even without a boat license!)
We loved our day out on the water so much that we decided to hire our own boat for another half day. We picked up our boat from Rent Boat Milos and paid €180 (plus €25 for gas) for 5 hours. You don’t need a boat license but having some experience will be useful. You will be given some time to practice at the beach and will be shown how to anchor before heading off.
We would highly recommend the company we went with. They reached out to us the day before our hire and let us know that the weather was going to be better in the afternoon. We had initially hired the boat for the morning, and they offered to change the hours if we preferred. Having this service and flexibility was incredible, and it goes without saying that the weather we ended up having was absolutely perfect. They are located in Provatas Beach on the south side of the island. This makes it a perfect location to explore the remote southern beaches including Kleftiko. During summer when the Meltemi winds are blowing from the north, you will be mostly protected on the south of the island.
South-east coastline
Because we’d spent the whole day around the southwest coast around Kleftiko the day before, we decided to head east from Provatas Beach. Rent Boat Milos gave us fantastic tips on where to stop and where to skip, put pins into our google maps for exactly where to anchor, and gave us a good idea of timelines between stops so we wouldn’t miss anything.
We loved being on our own timeline and having the flexibility to stop wherever we wanted rather than being restricted to designated tour stops. We had so much privacy, and for most of our stops we were the only ones there. During summer, August especially, you won’t have the same level of privacy. So if this is important to you, aim for the shoulder season when the weather is still perfect but the crowds won’t be around.
There’s a cooler box on the boat, so make sure you pack food and drinks to take with you. The boat we had for the afternoon had a canopy you could pull up for shade, but you will still need to bring sun protection.
Discover remote beaches
If Milos is best known for anything, it’s the crystal clear turquoise waters and remote beaches scattered all across the island. There are entire blog posts out there focusing specifically on the beaches of Milos! We didn’t even scratch the surface when it came to Milos’ beaches.
You will spend a lot of time traveling between beaches, and be aware that some are not accessible by land (another reason to hire a boat or take a tour!). You will need to narrow down your selection and aim for a couple each day. Some beaches have organised beach clubs or nearby restaurants, but there are a lot that don’t have any amenities nearby.
Plathiena
This was our favourite beach. Driving down into the bay gives you spectacular views over the azure water with sparsely vegetated cliffs hugging the beach in all directions. Plathiena is conveniently located near Plaka, and although it’s located on the north side of the island it is strangely protected from the Meltemi winds.
There is a fairly new beach club here where you can hire 2 beds and an umbrella for €20. You can find a few trees on the other end of the beach if you prefer to set your towel down on the sand. The beach had a great atmosphere and it did seem busier than a lot of the other beaches on the island, even though we had previously read it was a little-visited beach. There is a tiny car park which can get incredibly busy in the summer apparently, so arrive early to avoid traffic if you are on Milos in July or August.
Mytakas Beach
Mytakas is a small, quiet beach located on the north side. This beach is best for avoiding crowds, with lots of space to spread out and plenty of trees for shade. It was quite rough when we went due to the northerly Meltemi, so keep in mind that there will be waves if you are visiting during the summer. There is a very small seasonal cantina, which was closed in early June. Prepare for no amenities if you are visiting out of season.
Putting Mytakas into maps took us down a very long and rutted dirt road. Once we were there, we realised you can get there much quicker on a flat paved road. Just put Mytakas Houses Milos into maps rather than the beach itself.
Thiorichia Beach
This unique beach is located on the eastern side of Milos and is set in an abandoned sulfur mine. It is bizarre to see old wagons and equipment still laying around the complex. The deep reds exposed in the cliffs of the old mine contrast with the turquoise water in the bay to create a striking landscape.
There is access from the road, but you will have to walk the last 500m. Do no attempt to drive this last section as it is not suitable for vehicles. We approached this beach by boat, anchoring just offshore as the sun started going down. Diving straight off the side of the boat into the warm waters with the gorgeous backdrop of sulfur-red cliffs was a highlight of our boat day.
This beach was very quiet in June, with only two other groups of people around the entire time we were there. It is a rocky beach so you will need to be careful getting in and out of the water. There are no amenities, so be sure to bring along anything you will need for the day.
Tsigrado beach
This tiny beach is somewhat accessible by land depending on your nerve. There is a rickety wooden ladder that gives you access from the top of the cliffs, down onto the beach. This unique access has made this beach quite popular. Although it is fairly remote compared to most beaches on the island, it was still incredibly busy when we went. It is located on the south side of the island and is a great beach for snorkeling due to the unique geology of the coastline. Tsigrado is a sandy beach with numerous caves to explore, and is great for windy days as it is so protected. There are no amenities here.
We accessed this beach by boat when we hired our own for a day. Arguably the view is better from the water anyway, and is the preferable option for access for anyone with limited mobility or young children.
Provatas Beach
We only came to Provatas beach because it was where we picked up our hire boat with Rent Boat Milos. Although the beach itself wasn’t our destination, we absolutely loved it. It has incredibly shallow, warm water and colourful cliffs framing the bay. There is a beach bar and restaurant, boat hire and water sports. There are also plenty of guest houses and a big hotel located here, so the small beach can get incredibly busy in summer apparently.
Papafragas caves and beach
Papafragas is located on the north of the island conveniently close to Pollonia and Sarakíniko. It is set just off the road, making it a popular stop.
The little beach here was a bit dirty due to the current pushing in trash, which wasn’t great to see. Maybe when the north side of the island is calmer the trash wouldn’t be as much of a problem, but it was not very inviting to swim in when we visited.
Other than that though, it is a truly unique landscape with narrow rocky inlets, deep caves and rock bridges. So even if you’re not planning on swimming, we think it is definitely worth a stop to explore the coastline here. There are no amenities, but a short drive will take you to the beautiful town of Pollonia.
Gerakas Beach
This wide pebble beach at the base of spectacular white volcanic rock cliffs was one of our favourite places on the whole island. It is located on the south of the island and is only accessible from the water. It should definitely be on your list if you hire your own boat. But we think another great way to explore this beach would be on this kayak tour for €60. You’ll get to see Gerakas and Tsigrado in one tour, two of the best beaches on the south of the island.
Due to the difficulty of accessing Gerakas beach, it is not nearly as popular as others and you have a good chance of having it entirely to yourself. It is unparalleled in beauty and deserves more attention than it gets.
When should you visit Milos?
We went in the first week of June and were told by countless locals that it was the best time to visit. The season had officially started, so mostly all tourism providers and restaurants had already opened up. Come July and August, everywhere in the Greek islands gets super crowded (like everywhere in Europe during summer), and the best thing about Milos is how peaceful and quiet it is. Crowds would ruin the best part of your experience on Milos in our opinion.
The weather we had was perfect for swimming and staying outdoors all day. The Meltemi (strong, dry northerly winds) will sometimes start in June, but we had very few days where we experienced them. In the end it only impacted our ability to swim around Sarakiniko for a couple of days due to rough waters. WARNING: the Meltemi winds can be incredibly strong and will create very rough seas. This can impact on boat day tours, ferry scheduling and you also won’t be able to swim at some of the best locations like Sarakiniko. Even beach days can be affected due to so much sand being kicked up and rough waves. The Meltemi are most severe in July and August.
A late summer holiday in September would also be perfect in Milos. The winds will have died down, the crowds dispersed, the water still warm.
Most tour operators and facilities are open between May and October on Milos. Outside of these months, you will find it more difficult to find accommodation, open restaurants and running tours.
The stunning white cliffs of Kleftiko
How long do you need
We spent four full days on Milos, which was the longest out of the three islands we went to, the others being Sifnos and Paros. And honestly, we could have used another day or two. You can certainly manage to see most things in 3 or 4 days if you hire a quad/car/scooter, but Milos is an incredibly quiet island and rushing around won’t feel right.
If you just don’t have the time to spend over half a week here, we suggest only doing a half day tour of Kleftiko. Then choose your favourite fishing villages and beaches ahead of time and target those. It’s a surprisingly large island, so a bit of planning will help you to see as much as possible.
How to get to Milos
Milos is part of the Cyclades islands group, close to Sifnos, Serifos and Paros. In fact we visited both Sifnos and Paros on the same trip as Milos during our last visit. Sifnos is less than an hour ferry away, and Paros is just under 2 hours away. If you’re interested in extending your Greek islands trip, Sifnos is best known for its hiking, foodie scene and 365 churches whereas Paros is best for nightlife, beach clubs and relaxation. You can read our extensive guide on Sifnos here.
If Milos is going to be your first destination, then the easiest way to arrive will be by ferry. Ferries leave Athens (Piraeus) and take about 3 hours on a faster ferry, costing around €75 one way. We booked all of our ferry’s on Ferryhopper and used the app to check in and for our boarding passes. It’s a really easy app to use, so we’d suggest downloading it before your trip, but you can always go through your email as well.
You can also take a 40 minute flight from Athens to Milos for around the same price as the ferry. There will usually be multiple flights a day, with all operators offering flights for under €100. We consider taking the ferry as the better option, only as it’s such a short haul flight and a ferry will be much more environmentally friendly.
Athens
However you decide to get there, you’ll likely be leaving from Athens. Make sure you leave yourself a day to explore this ancient city that most people skip over on their way to the islands. We were surprised at how young and vibrant Athens was. It has incredible nightlife, and plenty of trendy suburbs littered with cocktail bars and boutique shops. Pair this with some of the world’s most outstanding historical landmarks and you will not run out of things to do in a 24 hour stopover.
We would also strongly suggest leaving yourself a night in Athens on your return to allow for any delays coming back from the islands (the ferries really do get delayed a lot).
Left: Swimming around the caves at Kleftiko. Right: The moonscape of Sarakiniko
Be prepared
Be prepared for delays with all ferries around the Cyclades. You may have booked the fast ferry, but if conditions on the day don’t allow for it they will revert to the slower ferry. This happened on our first ferry from Piraeus to Milos. It was supposed to take 3 hours but ended up taking twice that because of the weather. Even with this delay, we were lucky compared to some horror stories from other people we met while traveling, including cancellations and long overnight journeys on small boats in terrible weather. If you’re flying in and out of Athens, we suggest spending the night there on both sides of your trip to allow for any delays with ferries (or your flight!).
Motion sickness / travel sickness
Even if you don’t get motion sickness normally, we would urge you to consider stocking up on travel sickness medication before you go. One couple we met had such bad weather on one of their ferries that the entire boat was sick. Bec is seasoned when it comes to motion sickness, so we had plenty of Kwells on hand and avoided getting sick on any of our ferries. Just ask your pharmacist for a non-drowsy option!
How to get around
Milos is literally covered in points of interest, and you will need to cover a lot of ground. We’ve included a map here highlighting all the best sites that you shouldn’t miss on the island.
ATV
The best way to get around in our opinion is by ATV. An ATV will cost €30-€70 depending on when you visit and how many cc’s you want. We hired ours at Apollonas Sunshine for €65 a day for a 550cc, and would definitely recommend this company. As part of the hire, we organised for them to bring the ATV to our accommodation on our arrival. Even when we were delayed several hours they were very quick to get it to us. They will also pick it up from your accommodation as well, though we chose to drive it back on our last day as they’re based in Adamantas where the ferries leave.
What to expect
Rates include helmets, which you should ALWAYS wear – you’re in an open vehicle after all and bitumen isn’t kind to unprotected skulls. Traffic on the island is fairly good and locals are obviously used to driving around ATV’s and scooters. Like anywhere, the taxi drivers can be a bit aggressive so just keep slightly to the right if you are being tailgated and they should go around you. Be sure to book early if you’re planning on hiring an ATV. We went in the low season and still had limited choice due to a lot being booked out already.
Scooter / car
You can also rent a car or a scooter. A scooter will cost between €20-€30 a day, and you should be able to pick up a basic rental car for around €65 a day. If renting a car, consider that it will be more difficult to find parking. Especially if you are visiting during the high season. We went in low season and even with an ATV we had difficulty finding a park during the day at a couple of spots, especially at Adamantas (the port town). At other spots around the island, the parking bays are narrow and small with limited access for cars, but having a scooter or ATV won’t be a problem.
Access
Something to consider if you are renting a scooter is that you will be limited in terms of accessing some of the tracks. Most of the roads are fine, but there are tracks leading down to more remote beaches that can’t be accessed on a scooter. We also had a storage box on the ATV, which most scooters did not seem to have. When you’re out exploring all day, it’s useful to have a box for your towels and drink bottles so you don’t have to have a big backpack on the whole time.
Budget tip
Renting an ATV or car will be cheaper in the low season. Renting during the low season will save you €10 a day when hiring a 125cc scooter or €15 a day for a 150cc ATV.
Scooter
| Low | Medium | High |
|---|---|---|
| 20€ - 40€ | 25€ – 55€ | 35€ - 70€ |
ATV
| Low | Medium | High |
|---|---|---|
| 30€ - 55€ | 45€ – 80€ | 55€ - 90€ |
For example, an automobile company on Milos breaks down the seasons as follows:
Low Season: 01/01-14/06 & 01/10-31/12
Medium Season 1: 15/06-30/06
Medium Season 2: 01/07-31/07 & 01/09-30/09
High Season: 01/08-31/08
When we went in early June, it was considered low season. It is really worth considering planning your trip during this time if you’re looking to save money. The weather is beautiful and warm at this time of year, without being stiflingly hot, and all tourism operators are already running. So you won’t miss out on anything, and you’ll get it all for much cheaper.
Bus
There are also a few bus routes around the island. Timetables for 2022 can be found here. All bus tickets are issued on the bus, and are €1.80 per person each way. There are four routes that cover the majority of main sightseeing points. You will need to plan ahead and factor in the times in between scheduled buses as there can be up to two hours before the next one will arrive.
Travel Budget?
Milos wasn’t the cheapest island we went to, that was Sifnos. But it was cheaper than Paros, and is certainly going to be cheaper than islands like Santorini and Mykonos. The biggest tip would be to go in ‘off season’. The first half of June is considered off season, but September isn’t.
| Activity | Cost |
|---|---|
| Ferry - Athens to Milos (per person) | €75 |
| Taxi to your accommodation (one way) | €20 |
| ATV’s per day | €65 |
| Fuel (for 4 days) | €30 |
| Day beds (set of 2) | €20 |
| Kleftiko day tour (per person) | €100 |
| Boat hire (half day) | €180 |
| Accommodation per night (for 2 people) | €47 |
| Food and drink: 2 mains + carafe of wine | €40 |
Where to stay on Milos
Milos has plenty of unique accommodation experiences from the windmills in Trypiti to the boat houses in Klima. It is worth considering whether such accommodation will be suitable if you are visiting in the peak of summer heat (think no aircon). During the low seasons however, these quiet villages would offer a peaceful and private getaway.
Pollonia
We stayed in Pollonia at Korina’s Rooms and would highly recommend it. There was parking for our ATV, the room was spacious with a small balcony and the aircon was nice and cold. Korina has just recently renovated the rooms and you could tell she poured a lot of love into it. Pollonia is located a bit out of the way, but we loved staying here. It has everything you could need including a beautiful sandy beach, and some of the best restaurants on the island without being very crowded.
If we were to go back, we would probably opt to stay in Plaka. We loved the atmosphere here and just wished we had spent more time in this village.
Have Gerakas beach all to yourself – only accessible by boat
Where to eat
Pollonia
- Rifaki: This restaurant is literally on the beach. Well priced, moody and romantic, and incredible service. Our favourite in Pollonia!
Kivotos ton Gefseon: This bakery has a beautiful outdoor dining area with really reasonably priced food and drink. We kept coming back here every morning.
We heard really good things about both Akrotiri Seafood Obsession Milos and Yialos as well.
Adamantas
- Apoplous: This restaurant is more upscale than most on the island, however you will find most restaurants along the water in Adamantas are a bit expensive and fancy. You will definitely need a reservation here, they didn’t have any room for walk-ins even during the low season. The food was incredibly fresh and the service couldn’t be beat. If you’re able to splurge for a night, this is the place we recommend!
Trypiti
- Glaronisia: The best cycladic salad I’ve ever had was from here and they offer traditional lemon granita to finish your meal.
Klima
- Astakas: This beautiful restaurant overlooking Klima is a little pricey but offers unbeatable views. It is the only restaurant in Klima and we would suggest either lunch or an early dinner to make the most of the scenery.
Plaka
- Archontoula: This one was probably our favourite meal on the island. The atmosphere was so lively and upbeat. When we were there, it filled up immediately after sunset. So get in quick or expect to have a late dinner. It was really well priced with great options.
Mandrakia
- Medusa: There is only one taverna in Mandrakia. We needed to mention this one simply because it’s included on every list of Milos restaurants. Even with a reservation, we were told to wait for close to half an hour by a seedy host who proceeded to immediately chat up two young blondes and give them a table straight away. There was a lot of ick. The food was fine, but I wouldn’t necessarily rate it above other restaurants on Milos. Definitely go to Mandrakia at sunset for the view, but you don’t need to stay here to eat.
Thanks for stopping by!
We hope we’ve inspired you to plan a trip to Milos, an island for adventurers and romantics. Milos is gaining in popularity and it’s easy to understand why. There are endless coves of turquoise water to discover, impressive white volcanic rock landscapes and unique sailing experiences to remote coastlines. We think you should visit Milos before it gets too busy!
Suggested: If you’re looking to see more islands in the Cyclades, read our post on why you should visit Sifnos – an island best known for food, hiking and hundreds of blue dome churches, or our post on Paros Island which is perfect for those looking for a bit of nightlife and typical Cycladic villages. To take the hassle out of it completely, we’ve also prepared a 10 day Greek island hopping itinerary.
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