March 25, 2023
Cassis, France - Ultimate guide
The cote d’azur is a well trodden holiday destination. However, most people will stick to the large metropolitan areas like Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Nice. If you’re looking for a Provençal village experience, you’ll need to explore a little bit further out. One of our favourite options for this is Cassis, less than an hour from Marseille by public transport. This village has it all. From a quaint harbour town to endless outdoor opportunities in the neighbouring national park with some of the most unique landscapes you’ll see in the French Riviera.
Our guide to Cassis and the Calanques covers everything you’ll need to know to plan a perfect trip to this outstanding area. We include what to budget, how to get there, where to stay and all the best things to see and do.
If you’re looking for more guides to southern France we have plenty available. Guides include a 10 day south of France itinerary (by public transport), city guides to Nice, Menton, Marseille, Cassis, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco, and a guide to the best day trips from Nice.
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Thanks for visiting! We're Bec & Michael and we are two hard working lovers of travel! We hope our words inspire you to travel the world without having to toss out your career!
Tip: avoid the biggest mistake we made. If you ask for water at a restaurant they will give you bottled still or sparkling water. They will never bring you free tap water. To save yourself the money, ask for a carafe of water by saying the following ‘carafe d’eau s’il vous plaît’.
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Plage du Bestouan
In this article
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Why visit Cassis and the CalanquesWhy visit Cassis and the Calanques
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What to see and do in CassisWhat to see and do in Cassis
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Where to stayWhere to stay
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How to get to CassisHow to get to Cassis
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When to visitWhen to visit
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Travel budgetTravel budget
Why visit Cassis and the Calanques
Cassis is located in the Mediterranean in the south of France, only 30km from the bustling city of Marseille. Although it’s conveniently close to large metropolitan areas (including Aix-en-Provence as well), it feels like another world with a quieter pace and a more relaxed atmosphere set in a typical Provençal village.
One of the biggest draw cards for Cassis is its proximity to the incredible Calanques National Park. A day trip to Cassis and the Calanques was actually the reason we visited Marseille in the first place. The Calanques are located within a national park but are surprisingly easy to access. A Calanque is a natural inlet surrounded by steep rocky outcrops. The Calanques at Cassis have impressive limestone jutting out over turquoise water. It is one of the most beautiful landscapes we saw while visiting the south of France.
More than just the Calanques however, Cassis has a charming old town and absolutely stunning and sophisticated beaches. To get the most out of your time here I would suggest three days. This will give you a chance to see the Calanques from the water, another day to hike through the national park and the rest of the time wandering through the pretty streets or relaxing on the water.
Cassis port
What to see and do in Cassis
Walk around the town and port
It’s worth taking some time to look around this beautiful town. If you’re visiting on a Wednesday or a Friday there will be a quaint little market in the centre between 8.00am and 1:00pm. Cassis village is very compact and can be experienced in half a day. But it oozes charm and has one of the most beautiful ports we saw in the French Riviera.
The village itself is ancient, dating back to Roman times with first signs of habitation dating between 500-600BC. The fortified village was built to exploit the local opportunities for fishing and hunting and is still a fishing port today. At night you will be able to witness the old Carolingian castle light up, situated on a hilltop overlooking the village.
The little streets in the old town are mostly pedestrian only. This makes it a really pleasant place to explore the local boutiques and gelato stands. The location of Cassis means that most restaurants here have extensive seafood menus with rotating catch of the day’s. Make sure to spend a long lunch soaking it all up in one of the incredible terrace restaurants in the old town or along the harbour. After lunch be sure to order a Creme de Cassis, a sweet liqueur made from blackcurrants (Cassis means blackcurrants in French) that is used in a very popular cocktail called kir.
Cassis old town and market
Visit the beach
The most famous beach in Cassis is Plage de la Grande Mer, a quick 5 minute walk from the port. This beach is incredibly spacious and sandy so you don’t need to worry about having shoes or a beach mat. It has all the amenities you could need including toilets, showers, a restaurant, and lifeguards on duty. It’s also cleaned every day! Just beware that this beach does get incredibly crowded during the high season.
We really enjoyed Plage du Bestouan however. It is a 10 minutes walk from the port to this pretty little beach. This beach has the easiest access to the water in the area. Further up the Calanques, the coast is mostly rocky with no real beaches. We made the mistake of stopping at Same Same beach bar. This was without a doubt the most expensive Aperol Spritz of my life! We would suggest you skip it and just spend some time on the pretty little public beach, Plage du Bestouan. The tiny pebble beach is very beautiful with a great atmosphere. Again, you’ll find all the amenities you’ll need here including showers and toilets.
For the best beaches Cassis has to offer though, you’ll want to head into Calanques National Park which brings us to our next suggestion.
Plage du Bestouan
Explore the Calanques National Park (Massif des Calanques)
For those wanting a taste of the French countryside, you can’t get much better than this incredible national park which is truly one of the most beautiful in the country. The Calanques are a series of inlets formed over millennia across the limestone landscape in the national park. Calanques National Park stretches from Cassis to the 9th arrondissement of Marseille.
They can be explored in a number of ways. The area is perfect for all types of visitors, from those looking for a bit of adventure and a challenging hike, to those just wanting to relax and unwind in nature. If you are planning on hiking during summer, try to avoid the peak heat of the day as there is little shade in some areas.
There are three main Calanques: Calanque d’En-vau, Calanque de Port Pin and Calanque de Port-Miou. In each inlet you’ll find multiple hidden beaches, perfect for a break in the shade and maybe even a whole beach to yourself.
Calanque de Port-Miou
Summer warning
If you’re visiting in the summer there is a chance that the Calanques National Park will be closed due to wildfire risk. Always check the conditions on the day of your planned trip by checking the map here (red means forbidden even on foot) or downloading the app. That being said, to avoid the wild fire season, you’re best visiting the Calanques between March and May. The weather will be more pleasant and there will be far fewer crowds.
However if you’re planning it as part of a larger south of France trip you might still wish to visit during summer for the full experience (especially if you want to swim). In this case, you might just have to expect that you won’t be able to access the park. However you will still be able to take boat tours and admire the landscape that way! We’ve provided details on how to enjoy the Calanques from the water below.
Hiking
You can walk into the Calanques straight from Cassis village. Otherwise there are a couple of car parks to get you a little closer. There’s a small car park at the Calanque de Port-Miou inlet and a larger car park close to the end of the headland, just put Brasserie du tennis club into maps.
Parts of the Calanques can be quite tough to hike so make sure you’re prepared with adequate water, food and proper walking shoes. Make sure you pick up your lunch in Cassis before heading out. There are plenty of bakeries in town that have really cheap and fresh baguettes that are perfect for a picnic lunch! You won’t find bins around so be sure to take all of your rubbish with you. Of course, don’t forget to bring your swimsuit, towel and sun protection.
1. Calanque de Port-Miou
For those short on time, the easiest Calanque to reach from Cassis is Calanque de Port-Miou. It’s only a 25 minute walk from Cassis to the beginning of Calanque de Port-Miou. From here you can hire kayaks or canoes from Destination Calanques Kayak Marseille Cassis from €40 for a half day trip (either 9am to 12pm or 1pm to 4pm). If you’re keen to keep walking, continue along the Sentier du Petit Prince which will take you to the end of the Calanque to where there is a nudist beach.
2. Calanque de Port Pin
Calanque de Port Pin is only 1.5km from Calanque de Port-Miou. You will find a small rocky beach here with very shallow calm water perfect for families. Those with children will probably want to end the hike here as the trail does get more difficult after this point.
3. Calanque d’en Vau
The hike to Calanque d’en Vau will take about 2.5 to 3.5 hours return. This is the furthest Calanque and arguably the prettiest. If you’re going this far you may as well give yourself a half a day to enjoy all three Calanques and stop at both Calanque de Port Pin and Calanque de Port-Miou on your way in and out. The bright azure waters and hidden beaches dotted along the way will take your breath away and certainly makes the time worth it. There are also plenty of interior walks within the national park as well. You could honestly spend weeks exploring this area!
Plage Bleue
Guided walks
All of the trails are well marked so you’ll be able to find your way around on your own. If you’d prefer a guided tour, this one only costs €40 and you’ll be sure to be provided with plenty of information along the way. There are also e-bike tours on offer for those not interested in hiking, offering a way to still explore the Calanques on land. This e-bike tour leaves from Marseille and only costs €47.
From the water
Another way to explore the Calanques is from the water, and there are both active and leisurely options. For those looking for a relaxing afternoon, consider taking a boat tour. Boat tours leave from Marseille, Cassis and La Ciotat giving you plenty of options. This tour from Marseille lasts 5 hours and costs €79, or you can take a full day sailing experience from Marseille for €130.
Be warned that you will need to book in advance for boat tours if you’re visiting in the summer! We left this decision to the last moment and missed out. For more active options you can take a paddle boarding tour like this one for €65 which leaves from Cassis, or this kayaking tour from Cassis that lasts between 3 and 6 hours and costs €69.
Where to stay
When it comes to where to stay, you have two choices. You can either stay in nearby Marseille, or in Cassis itself. When we visited we stayed in Marseille and did a day trip to Cassis, which is totally doable. We chose this option as we had never visited Marseille and wanted to spend some time exploring the city as well. However, if we were to return we would definitely choose to stay in Cassis instead. And if you’re prepared to do the extra bit of travel with your luggage, we would suggest that you stay in Cassis too.
If you’re planning on two nights / three days we definitely think it’s worth the extra travel time. Cassis is so much more charming than Marseille, with a more local atmosphere, full of charming cafes and restaurants dotted around a small and quiet town sitting pretty on a picture-perfect harbour. Plus the natural beauty of Cassis far exceeds that of Marseille and the number of activities (particular outdoors) is phenomenal.
Where to stay in Cassis
You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodation in Cassis, I would say more so than Marseille where you are restricted to hotels in the centre of town. Where you stay exactly will depend on how you’ve arrived (more on how to get to Cassis in the next section). If you have arrived by public transport, being central will be more important to you. There are buses of course (plenty actually) which will get you in and out of the town centre to nearby areas, but unless you’re staying for quite a few days we don’t think this is worth it given the extra travel. Also be aware that in summer you’ll be waiting at bus stops in the sun and buses can fill up before you board, meaning you could be left waiting for the next one.
We walked past Hotel de La Plage on a walk to Calanque de Port-Miou. This beautiful hotel is set back behind the beautiful Plage du Bestouan with panoramic views over the Mediterranean. It’s only a 12 minute walk to the port in Cassis so it’s a good compromise if you’re not wanting to stay right in the middle of the village, but close enough for it to still be convenient. It is very expensive in peak season though, at €475 a night. For something more affordable, Hotel Le Golfe is right on the harbour with gorgeous views and a buffet breakfast for only €130 per night in the summer (not bad for the south of France).
Cassis old port
Where to stay in Marseille
Try and find accommodation in the 1st, 2nd, 6th or 7th arrondissement close to the old port. It’s the area around the old port that is the safest and it’s also where the majority of tourist sites are. As you’re only going to be here for a couple of days it’s worth being central!
The 1st arrondissement near the old port is best for those looking to stay in the heart of the city and is probably the best location for those visiting Marseille for the first time. There’s so much happening in this area that you won’t have to venture too far out if you don’t want to and there’s no chance of you running out of things to do.
The 2nd arrondissement (but still close to the port) is the most convenient location for those most interested in museums and history and is closer to the train station than the 1st arrondissement. Marseille is the oldest city in France and one of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city is located in the 2nd arr., Le Panier.
For those looking for a bit of nightlife then the 6th arr. is perfect. The area of Notre Dame du Mont, and Jean Jaures Square in particular, is where you should head to experience the nightlife of Marseille.
The 7th arr. is best for those more interested in visiting the city beaches. Located on the coastline just south of Marseille, it’s still very close to the city but with sweeping views and in close proximity to Calanques National Park. If you’re going to choose to stay here you will probably want to hire a car.
Marseille
How to get Cassis
You’ll likely be visiting Cassis as part of a larger trip to the south of France. To reach the cote d’azur you can either fly into Marseille or Nice. We have detailed guides to both cities which includes all the information you’ll need on how to get there. See our guide to Marseille here, and our guide to Nice here.
Public transport
From Marseille
You will need to take the train from Marseille St-Charles to Cassis which takes 24 minutes and will cost €6.50 for an adult each way. Once you arrive at Cassis station there are shuttle buses to the town centre which takes 15 minutes and will cost you €2 each way (you pay the driver in coins when you hop on). You can walk if you want to but it will take you 45 minutes and will be along narrow windy roads in part.
From Aix-en-Provence
From Aix-en-Provence, you will first need to take the train into Marseille St-Charles which takes 12 minutes and will cost €9 for an adult each way. Then follow the above instructions to get to Cassis from Marseille.
By car
If you’re planning on staying in Cassis rather than Marseille it might be worth hiring a car instead of relying on public transport. We don’t often suggest renting a vehicle, especially in places like southern France where the public transport network is so well connected and frequent. However, Cassis is a little out of the way and having your own vehicle will mean that you can explore much more than you will be able to do relying on public transport alone. For example, we really wanted to visit Les Goudes while we were there, however from Cassis this requires a train to Marseille and then the metro and 2 buses (all up 1 hour 40 minutes travel).
You can reach Cassis from Marseille by car in 30 minutes, or from Aix-en-Provence in 45 minutes. If you’re visiting on a day trip you will need to arrive early. There are plenty of paid public parking spots in Cassis but they fill up really fast. Another alternative is to park in nearby villages like Les Gorguettes where there is a free parking spot and a bus shuttle into town for €1.60 return.
Tour
If you’re interested in just taking a day trip without the fuss of organising your own transport, there are plenty of options for you. This tour is a bit of an all inclusive one for €150 per person leaving from Aix-en-Provence and includes a visit to Cassis village, a boat ride into the Calanques and a wine tour.
This tour leaves from Marseille and visits Cassis village, but you won’t have a boat tour included. It will set you back €70 per person. If you’re more keen on visiting the Calanques rather than the village, you’ll find a lot of options leaving from Marseille like this one for €79 which includes a 5 hour boat tour and lunch.
When to visit Cassis
We visited in August and honestly I wouldn’t suggest it. It’s very hot and France isn’t made for the heat. Between the hot trains, the beaches without shade and all of the outdoor eateries, Cassis would be much nicer in June or September. There are obviously crowds in summer, but we didn’t find them so bad. In fact, the crowds create a great atmosphere and add to the European summer vibe.
Some of the trains got a bit uncomfortably packed but we didn’t struggle with anything else. If you are visiting in the summer be sure to book restaurants ahead of time, like you would for anywhere in Europe. Between November and May a lot of tour operators, beach clubs and some restaurants will be closed. The weather will still be pleasant though, you will just have a quieter time and will have to plan ahead more to make sure what you want to do is possible.
Travel Budget for cassis
The below costs are what we actually spent in August 2022. If you’re looking to save a bit of cash, definitely consider visiting in June or September. You’ll still have the vibe of the European summer crowds, but with discounted prices on everything.
Honestly, we thought the south of France was going to be more expensive than it ended up being for us. We were very selective about where we ate out (only ate out at a really nice restaurant once). We only went to a beach club once, plus we mostly bought bottles of wine to drink at the beach rather than at bars.
| Activity | Cost |
|---|---|
| Tram between Nice and Marseille (one way) | €40 - €60 |
| Train between Marseille and Cassis (one way) | €6.50 |
| Beach club (full day - beds and umbrella) | €30 |
| Cheap meal (e.g. socca, per serving) | €3 |
| Hotel (per night, 3* in peak season) | €150 |
| Nice meal out (main) | €20 |
| Cocktail (at an upscale bar) | €15 |
Thanks for stopping by!
We hope we’ve inspired you to plan a visit to Cassis during your next south of France holiday. This charming town near Marseille and Aix-en-Provence has so much to offer, the best of which is its close proximity to the beautiful Calanques.
If you’re looking for more guides to southern France we have plenty available. Guides include a 10 day south of France itinerary (by public transport), city guides to Nice, Menton, Marseille, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco, and a guide to the best day trips from Nice.
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